Tarte Sugar Rush - Don't Hate, Hydrate Oil Free Moisturizer Versus Dermalogica Clear Start Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingNylon-12
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Polyacrylate Starch
AbsorbentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingAroma
Saccharide Isomerate
HumectantSodium Carbonate
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingPolyphosphorylcholine Glycol Acrylate
Geraniol
PerfumingCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Nylon-12, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Trimethicone, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Aroma, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Carbonate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Polyphosphorylcholine Glycol Acrylate, Geraniol, CI 16035
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingNaringenin
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingZingiber Officinale Root Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTriethyl Citrate
MaskingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenyl Triacetate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Methylpropanediol
SolventAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzoic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, C14-22 Alcohols, Naringenin, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Saccharide Isomerate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethyl Citrate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Panthenyl Triacetate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Limonene, Citral, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimonenePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Saccharide Isomerate comes from sugars found in corn. It is a skin hydrator.
The structure of this ingredient can be altered to be more similar to the carbohydrates found in our skin. This ability to mimic our skin gives it hydrating properties.
Specifically, saccharide Isomerate is a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the air to our skin.
Research shows Saccharide Isomerate to be an effective moisturizer.
Learn more about Saccharide IsomerateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water