What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantJuglans Regia Shell Powder
AbrasiveCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
CleansingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cetyl Acetate
EmollientParfum
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingRosa Gallica Flower Powder
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingTriethanolamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Benzoic Acid
MaskingAcetylated Lanolin Alcohol
EmollientSorbic Acid
PreservativeRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCinnamyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Juglans Regia Shell Powder, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Acetate, Parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, Rosa Gallica Flower Powder, Ceteareth-20, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Disodium EDTA, Benzoic Acid, Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol, Sorbic Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, CI 77891
Salicylic Acid 2%
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningJuglans Regia Shell Powder
AbrasiveGlycol Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantSodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
CleansingZea Mays Kernel Meal
AbrasiveCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Acetate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAcetylated Lanolin Alcohol
EmollientParfum
MaskingPPG-2 Methyl Ether
PerfumingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSalicylic Acid 2%, Water, Juglans Regia Shell Powder, Glycol Stearate Se, Glycerin, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Zea Mays Kernel Meal, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Cetyl Acetate, Ceteareth-20, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol, Parfum, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Phenethyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol can be bad for oily skin and be bad for acne prone skin.
Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Acetate is an emollient and is created by reacting cetyl alcohol with acetic acid.
It is a waxy and water-repellent, giving formulas a smooth slip. Once applied on the skin, your skin enzymes naturally break it down into cetyl alcohol and acetic acid, both of which are well-studied and considered safe.
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 4 and irritancy rating of 2 based on early studies.
Just know these numbers have some caveats; comedogenic rating studies used ingredients at high concentations in pure form and not how they behave in a finished product (where they're used in lower percentages and balanced by other ingredients).
Comedogenic ratings also don't account for individual skin or how a product is actually used.
Learn more about Cetyl AcetateCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Learn more about Cocamidopropyl BetaineGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateYou might know this ingredient as walnut shell powder. It is an abrasive used as a physical exfoliator.
Abrasives are physical exfoliants used to get rid of dead cell buildup on your skin. Physical exfoliators have a bad reputation due to the myth that they give your face tiny cuts. This is untrue.
Like any exfoliant, using this ingredient can disrupt your skin barrier. This can lead to breakouts, irritation, and dryness. It is critical to be gentle when using any type of exfoliator.
If you want to use a chemical exfoliator instead, check out glycolic acid.
Learn more about Juglans Regia Shell PowderParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is an organic salt with a naturally sweet odor. It is an alternative to traditional sulfates and is commonly found in "sulfate-free" products.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is used to increase the volume of foam, emulsify ingredients, and as a cleansing agent.
As a cleansing agent, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate helps reduce the surface tension of dirt, oil, and other pollutants so they can be rinsed away easily.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review found this ingredient to irritate the eyes and skin in concentrations of 0.18% and 0.7%.
Learn more about Sodium Lauryl SulfoacetateTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water