What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Propanediol
SolventBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningMacrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin ConditioningChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Archangelica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
HumectantSorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantAllyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Propanediol, Bacillus Ferment, Retinol, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract, Glycerin, Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polysorbate 20, Propyl Gallate, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Pvp, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, CI 16035, CI 19140
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialMica
Cosmetic ColorantTriethanolamine
BufferingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantDimethiconol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTin Oxide
AbrasiveWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Silica, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Propylene Glycol, CI 77891, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Mica, Triethanolamine, Polysorbate 80, Caffeine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Tin Oxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water