What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Tridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientHydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Parfum
Masking
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Prunus Avium Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Tribehenin
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Masking
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Hydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
CI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyisobutene, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Parfum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Aluminum Hydroxide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, CI 45410, CI 19140, CI 77499, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 42090, CI 77891
Tridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Aroma
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Tribehenin
Emollient
Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate
Emulsifying
Propylene Carbonate
SolventStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
CI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantTridecyl Trimellitate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisostearyl Malate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Aroma, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Tribehenin, Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 45410
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410This is a synthetic polymer used to thicken formulas, improve texture, and enhance spreadability.
Due to its large molecule size, this ingredient does not penetrate the skin and is considered well-tolerated.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninTridecyl Trimellitate is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioning properties. It also acts as a texture enhancer and helps products spread easily without feeling greasy.
As an emollient, it forms a light layer on the skin that keeps moisture in and improves water resistance. This is why you'll often find this ingredient in eye creams and other rich treatments.
This ingredient is seen as the elegant alternative to mineral oil.
Learn more about Tridecyl Trimellitate
