What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingC15-19 Alkane
SolventGlycerin
HumectantTriethyl Citrate
MaskingDiglycerin
HumectantSalicylic Acid
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingTaraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingWater, Azelaic Acid, C15-19 Alkane, Glycerin, Triethyl Citrate, Diglycerin, Salicylic Acid, Panthenol, Silica, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phosphate, Disodium Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientTriethyl Citrate
MaskingPropanediol
SolventPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Squalane
EmollientSilica
AbrasivePanthenol
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Glycerin
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingWater, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Triethyl Citrate, Propanediol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Squalane, Silica, Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidDisodium Phosphate is a water-soluble powder used as a pH adjuster and mild chelating agent. It basically holds a specific pH and binds stray metal ions so your product stays stable.
This ingredient is usually used at very low levels and concentrations range from 0.000054% - 2.9%. The CIR Expert Panel states this ingredient to be non-irritating at current use levels.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch used to help thicken a product.
It is also used in foods.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSodium Phosphate is is behind-the-scenes formulation helper. Its main job is buffering, or locking in the product's pH.
This helps ensure the formula stays at its intended acidity through manufacturing, shipping, and sitting on your shelf. Many active ingredients like vitamin C or retinoids are pH sensitive so maintaining their happy pH range matters.
It is synthetic and reported use concentrations are very low (up to 0.086% in face powders).
Learn more about Sodium PhosphateTriethyl Citrate comes from citric acid. It has masking, perfuming, and solvent properties. As a solvent, this ingredient helps disperse ingredients evenly in skincare.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient can:
According to perfume manufacturers, this ingredient is almost odorless but has a mild fruity, wine and plum scent. It can be used to mask the scent of other ingredients.
This ingredient can be plant-sourced or synthetic; it can naturally be found in cabbage and white wine.
Learn more about Triethyl CitrateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water