What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientSqualane
Emollient
Palmitoyl Glycine
CleansingRetinyl Retinoate
Skin Conditioning
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningTetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Antioxidant
Tetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningCanola Oil
Emollient
Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningPseudostellaria Heterophylla Extract
Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingPropanediol
Solvent
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Parfum
Masking
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, C12-16 Alcohols, Squalane, Palmitoyl Glycine, Retinyl Retinoate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydropiperine, Canola Oil, Palmitoyl Proline, Pseudostellaria Heterophylla Extract, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Canola Oil is a plant-oil and low-erucic-acid variety of rapeseed. Like other seed oils, it functions as an emollient that softens skin and slows water loss.
Its fatty acid profile is mostly linoleic acid (55-65%) with some oleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. There are also some small amounts of vitamin E and plant sterols.
The sterol content is pretty interesting:
In a controlled human study, a single application of canola oil and especially its sterol-enriched fraction reduced visible irritation, redness, and water loss caused by SLS. Plain canola oil and most other tested oils did little on healthy, un-irritated skin.
It's pretty much just a calm, moisturizing oil that helps with soothing if your skin is already irritated.
Since canola oil is made up of C18 fatty acids, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on chain lengths C11-24.
Fun fact: Canadian growers bred the low-erucic variety in the 1970's, and the name stands for "Canadian oil, Low Acid").
Learn more about Canola OilCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideRetinyl Retinoate is a new member of the retinoid family. It is created by combining retinoic acid (aka Tretinoin) and retinol.
Upcoming research shows this ingredient to be as effective but less irritating than retinol. Retinoids are the anti-aging gold standard of the skincare world.
All retinoids are inactive until they are converted into retinoic acid, a biologically active drug.
Retinoids undergo a conversion process until it reaches the last step, which is retinoic acid. Therefore, retinoic acid/Tretinoin is the most effective of all retinoids because it does not need to be converted.
Retinyl Retinoate is immediately broken down into retinoic acid and retinol, therefore becoming active right away.
Retinoids are best used to:
Further research is needed for this upcoming ingredient, but the results look promising so far.
Learn more about Retinyl RetinoateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
