What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Bisulfite
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Phosphate
BufferingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Bisulfite, Xanthan Gum, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phosphate
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantHoney
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Emulsion StabilisingPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Benzoate
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantTephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Honey, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Allantoin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAlpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).
It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.
There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.
The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.
Human studies look good too.
A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.
Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.
Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.
Learn more about Alpha-ArbutinPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water