What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantTrisiloxane
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePvp
Emulsion StabilisingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLaureth-4
EmulsifyingLinalool
PerfumingSilk Powder
Skin ConditioningBenzophenone-4
UV AbsorberLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingCI 60730
Cosmetic ColorantCI 60725
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Propylene Glycol, Trisiloxane, Hexylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Pvp, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Laureth-4, Linalool, Silk Powder, Benzophenone-4, Limonene, Geraniol, Eugenol, CI 60730, CI 60725, CI 17200, CI 19140, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantVp/Va Copolymer
Pvp
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-11
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
EmulsifyingPolyquaternium-4
Linalool
PerfumingKeratin Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingMethylchloroisothiazolinone
PreservativeGeraniol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
MaskingMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingAchillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientBetula Alba Leaf Extract
AstringentCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingCitrus Grandis Fruit Extract
AstringentEugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower
Skin ConditioningMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientCinnamyl Alcohol
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCinnamal
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingWater, Propylene Glycol, Vp/Va Copolymer, Pvp, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, PEG-12 Dimethicone, DMDM Hydantoin, Parfum, Polyquaternium-11, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Polyquaternium-4, Linalool, Keratin Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Geraniol, Eugenol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Methylisothiazolinone, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Betula Alba Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamal, Citral, Coumarin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Eugenol is the phenylpropanoid that gives cloves their smell, and it makes up roughly 78% of clove essential oil. It also shows up in cinnamon leaf, bay, nutmeg, and basil, or made synthetically.
Officially, its CosIng functions are perfuming and tonic. So its job in a formula is almost always scent rather than skin benefit.
There's some lab work behind its reputation; in one study, it acted as an antioxidant and calmed inflammation in human immune cells. But it also killed skin cells (keratinocytes) in a dish.
It stopped damaging those cells and still reduced swelling in mice when the researchers wrapped it in tiny capsules to slow its release.
One study that is quoted out of context frequently: clove oil killed human skin and blood vessel cells at levels as low as 0.03%, and about 73% of that came down to eugenol. Keep in mind those were bare cells sitting in a dish with no skin barrier in the way (which is a lot harsher than what happens on your actual face).
On concentrations, it is restricted to 0.64% in leave-on products + body products, 0.21% in baby + lip products, 2.5% in fine fragrance and 4.9% in rinse-off. Real formulas usually land far below those caps.
Allergy is the actual story with this ingredient. It is one of the eight markers dermatologists use for allergy testing, and the EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
It is also a prohapten, meaning it needs enzymatic activation in skin to become allergenic, so sensitivity varies between people.
Rates are modest but not trivial: in a classic EECDRG multicentre study, 13 of about 1,300 patch-tested patients reacted to eugenol, and in eugenol-allergic subjects the lowest positive patch test concentration was 0.031%, with 56% reacting in a 21-day repeated open application test at 0.5% to 2.7%.
Normal use levels are generally fine if you are not already sensitized.
Learn more about EugenolGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolPvp is a water-soluble synthetic polymer and common hairstyling ingredient. It is a film-forming ingredient and used to "hold" specific shapes of hair.
In cosmetics, PVP helps products like sunscreens and color cosmetics last longer and wear more evenly.
It is less effective in high-humidity. It tends to draw moisture, but this moisture dismantles the structure and "hold".
PVP is generally well tolerated on skin and toxicity studies are negative for dermal irritation.
Learn more about PvpWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water