Nivea Luminous630 Skin Glow Instant Glow Serum Versus Nivea Cellular Luminous 630 Anti Dark Spot Night Cream

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

What makes it stand out is how specific it is to human tyrosinase: it was discovered by screening more than 50,000 compounds against recombinant human tyrosinase rather than the mushroom version most older ingredients were tested on.

Thiamidol turned out to be superior to frequently used inhibitors of hyperpigmentation (kojic acid, arbutin, and even hydroquinone) in lab testing.

The clinical evidence is solid as well for a cosmetic ingredient; it matched or beat a 2% hyroquinone for mild-to-moderate melasma in a double-blind study, reduced visible age spots at concentrations as low as 0.1% within 4 weeks, and separate trials show it helps with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the marks left behind after acne).

This ingredient is generally well-tolerated since it doesn't rely on the quinone-forming mechanism that can irritate skin. Studies also report minimal and self-limiting side effects.

Typical usage concentration in finished products is 0.2% (the same amount most of the clinical trials used) and it shows activity as low as 0.1%.

Overall, this is a better-researched brightening active and is a great option if pigmentation is your concern.

Be sure to also check out Rucinol, another "hydroquinone alternative".

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.