What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Tretinoin
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingAzelaic Acid
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCandelilla Wax Esters
Dimethicone
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Lecithin
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePoloxamer 407
EmulsifyingPolyethylene
AbrasiveDistearyl Ether
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantBentonite
AbsorbentWater
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitol
HumectantSqualene
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTretinoin, Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Candelilla Wax Esters, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Lecithin, Octyldodecanol, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 407, Polyethylene, Distearyl Ether, Polysorbate 60, Propylene Glycol, Bentonite, Water, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitol, Squalene, Stearyl Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolTretinoin (aka retinoic acid) is the gold standard retinoid in dermatology because it's the form of vitamin A that your skin can use right away. It's a prescription drug and regulated as medication in most countries.
Unlike retinol, it skips the conversion steps and goes straight to work.
Inside your skin cells, it binds to receptors called retinoic acid receptors and switches on the genes that control how skin cells behave.
For acne, it helps your skin shed dead cells properly instead of letting them build up and clog your pores (this is what turns into blackheads and pimples). It also calms redness/swelling, which is why it's a FDA-approved acne treatment.
Tretinoin also tells your skin to make more collagen and slows down the stuff that breaks collagen apart too. Over time, your skin looks smoother, softer, and more even, with fewer lines lines and sun spots.
The evidence for this ingredient is strong:
A systematic review of randomized controlled trials found that topical tretinoin consistently improved wrinkles, pigmentation, sallowness, and dark spots. Results typically showed up as early as one month and lasted out to 24 months.
All studies also found this ingredient to be safe and well-tolerated.
Typical concentrations run from about 0.01-0.1%, with 0.025%-0.1% being the usual range studied for photoaging and a 0.05% cream producing measurable wrinkle/roughness improvements in large six-month trials.
The main trade-off is irritation; dryness, peeling, redness, and sun sensitivity are common in the first few weeks so be sure to pair it well with a good moisturizer and daily sunscreen.
Learn about a form of retinoid you can purchase at the store, retinol.
Learn more about Tretinoin