What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Emollient
PEG-8 Isostearate
Emulsifying
Dextrin Palmitate
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
Emollient
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, Dextrin Palmitate, Parfum, Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Emollient
PEG-8 Isostearate
Emulsifying
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Dextrin Palmitate
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Limonene
Perfuming
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Linalool
Perfuming
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Pinus Koraiensis Seed Oil
Perfuming
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Emollient
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Emollient
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Masking
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningSpirodela Polyrhiza Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Mume Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
Antimicrobial
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Dextrin Palmitate, Parfum, Limonene, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Squalane, Linalool, Water, Butylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Pinus Koraiensis Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract, Prunus Mume Seed Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDextrin Palmitate is an oil-loving texture helper made by bonding palmitic acid onto Dextrin. It's main roles are to turn liquid oils into spreadable gels and prevent ingredients from separating.
It also lends a silky, non-greasy slip that makes products feel more elegant.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.5-5%, but can go up to 10% depending on how firm the gel is.
Because it's an ester built on a fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Dextrin PalmitateGlyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate isn't fungal acne safe.
Isopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.
Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.
Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).
The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.
Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl PalmitateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:
This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.
Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl TriisostearatePEG-8 Isostearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
