What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialUndecane
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningTrisiloxane
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingTridecane
PerfumingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningMethyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Bisabolol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSilica Silylate
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPhenylpropanol
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventSilica
AbrasiveDimethicone
EmollientPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Undecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trisiloxane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Tridecane, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Bisabolol, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica Silylate, Zea Mays Starch, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Phenylpropanol, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Silica, Dimethicone, Propyl Gallate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Tocopherol
Propanediol
SolventDimethicone
EmollientAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantAzelaic Acid
BufferingUrea
BufferingDimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
EmulsifyingLauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialRetinol
Skin ConditioningAllyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBHT
AntioxidantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantPropanediol, Dimethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Urea, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Bakuchiol, Ferulic Acid, Retinol, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, BHT, Dipropylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Propyl Gallate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconePolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPropyl Gallate is a synthetic antioxidant. It works by protecting the oils, fats, and fragrance compounds in a formula from going rancid through oxidation, helping the product stay stable and effective for longer.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel recommends keeping Propyl Gallate at or below 0.1% due to potential sensitization at higher levels, and most formulas stay within that limit.
We flag Propyl Gallate as both a general irritant and a lip irritant because direct skin contact can trigger redness or allergic contact dermatitis. The more sensitive skin on and around the lips is prone to reacting.
Learn more about Propyl GallateRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol