What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
Buffering
Glycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycolic Acid
Buffering
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Mentha Piperita Oil
Masking
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Emollient
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
Masking
CI 45430
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polysorbate 20, Mentha Piperita Oil, Allantoin, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, CI 45430, CI 15985
Water
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
Buffering
Propanediol
Solvent
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Citric Acid
Buffering
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion Stabilising
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Citrus Clementina Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientCitrus Tangerina Peel Extract
AstringentPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract
Abrasive
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
CI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Lactic Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Citrus Clementina Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium EDTA, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 16035
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural âglueâ that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (thatâs where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But donât skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless youâre highly sensitive, itâs well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
Itâs often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
