Face Gym Youth Reformer Firming Vitamin C Oil Serum
A serum with 22 ingredients, including vitamin C, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Borago Officinalis Seed Oil to soften the look of wrinkles.
Worth noting
Contains EU-listed fragrance allergens, including Santalum Album Wood Oil and Farnesol.
We independently verify ingredients, backed by peer-reviewed research. Suggest an update.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Squalane
EmollientAlmond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides
AntioxidantBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantOctyldodecanol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingSantalum Album Wood Oil
PerfumingCarapa Guaianensis Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningBulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTriolein
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientArnica Montana Flower
Skin ConditioningPogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
PerfumingVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Dioleate
EmollientFarnesol
PerfumingSqualane, Almond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Octyldodecanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Santalum Album Wood Oil, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triolein, C10-18 Triglycerides, Arnica Montana Flower, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Plankton Extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Dioleate, Farnesol
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneAlmond/Borage/Linseed/Olive Acids/Glycerides is an antioxidant and isn't fungal acne safe.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is from the seeds of the starflower plant. This plant grows primarily in Europe.
This oil does not have a scent. It contains fatty acids such as linolenic acid. These fatty acids help keep skin hydrated.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
Learn more about Borago Officinalis Seed OilAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a version of ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
This ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
It helps with dark spot fading by interfering with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Like other forms of vitamin C, this ingredient encourages the skin to create more collagen.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
One study found Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to degrade in sunlight, but is stabilized when combined with acetyl zingerone.
Learn more about Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateThis ingredient is also known as mustic gum and from a tree native to the Mediterranean Basin.
It has fragrance and masking properties.
Fun fact: This ingredient has been used as chewing gum for at least 2,400 years.
Learn more about Pistacia Lentiscus GumSantalum Album Wood Oil is a fragrance and is an oil.
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.
This ingredient is also known as Guaiacwood oil.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideTriolein isn't fungal acne safe.
C10-18 Triglycerides is a skin conditioning and texture-enhancer.
It is created from glycerin and a mixture of C10-18 fatty acids.
This ingredient improves spreadability and helps thicken a product.
According to manufacturers, it usually comes from vegetable-based saturated fatty acids. Common bases for this ingredient are coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or both.
Due to the melting point being close to skin temperature, it is usually used in lip products.
Triglycerides are a main component of fat in the human body.
Learn more about C10-18 TriglyceridesArnica Montana Flower is more commonly known as Wolf's Bane. Wolf's Bane has been said to have anti-inflammatory properties. However, studies are conflicting about whether this is true.
The FDA considers Wolf's Bane to be an unsafe herb. They advise against taking it orally or applying it to broken skin.
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract is a fragrance.
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract comes from the vanilla orchid native to central America. It is a skin-soothing ingredient.
This ingredient is skin-soothing and contains polyphenols that give it antioxidant properties.
This ingredient is not known to sensitize or irritate skin (unlike Vanilla Tahitensis). Vanilla tahitensis has shown to irritate skin in low amounts.
Learn more about Vanilla Planifolia Fruit ExtractWe don't have a description for Plankton Extract yet.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateGlyceryl Dioleate isn't fungal acne safe.
Farnesol is a compound extracted from essential oils such as lemongrass, rose, and more. It is used as a fragrance in products to help boost floral scents.
Farnesol is a known EU allergen and causes contact dermatitis.
This ingredient is hydrophobic, meaning it is not soluble in water.
Learn more about FarnesolReviews
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Where it's from
Face Gym is a British brand
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We're dedicated to providing you with the most up-to-date and science-backed ingredient info out there.
The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about us· Published March 15, 2023