theBalm Cosmetics In The Balm Of Your Hand Greatest Hits Volume 2 Palette Versus Basma Beauty The Cream Blush
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Isoeicosane
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveBoron Nitride
AbsorbentPolyisobutene
Ptfe
Silica
AbrasiveSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeDimethicone
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCI 77163
Cosmetic ColorantCI 75470
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientIron Oxides
Lauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantKaolin
AbrasiveHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCalcium Aluminum Borosilicate
CI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77007
Cosmetic ColorantIsoeicosane, Polyethylene, Boron Nitride, Polyisobutene, Ptfe, Silica, Synthetic Wax, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dimethicone, CI 77891, CI 77491, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, CI 77163, CI 75470, CI 77492, Zinc Stearate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Iron Oxides, Lauroyl Lysine, Magnesium Stearate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, CI 15850, CI 45410, Kaolin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, CI 77742, CI 77007
Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Polyethylene
AbrasiveMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbic Acid
PreservativeIron Oxides
CI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPhenyl Trimethicone, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Polyethylene, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbic Acid, Iron Oxides, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499, Mica, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateThis ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.
Learn more about Iron Oxides