What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Arbutin
Antioxidant
Acetyl Glucosamine
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Dicaprylyl Ether
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Buffering
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Betaine
Humectant
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientEthoxydiglycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
Buffering
Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Rosa Damascena Extract
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Betaine, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
