What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Dimethyl Ether
SolventWater
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Dihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Linalool
Perfuming
Hexyl Cinnamal
Perfuming
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Decylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylphenyl Methylpropional
Perfuming
Citronellol
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Perfuming
Geraniol
Perfuming
Coumarin
Perfuming
CI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantDimethyl Ether, Water, Alcohol Denat., Dihydroxyacetone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citronellol, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Coumarin, CI 14700, CI 19140, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningDihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantDecyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Glycereth-26
Humectant
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Skin ConditioningColeus Forskohlii Root Extract
EmollientPanthenol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Erythrulose
TanningTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Aloe Barbadensis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil
Masking
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningJuniperus Communis Fruit Oil
Masking
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Astringent
Punica Granatum Extract
AstringentDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Hexyl Cinnamal
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Geraniol
Perfuming
Hydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Citric Acid
Buffering
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Triethylene Glycol
Masking
Water, Dihydroxyacetone, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Decyl Glucoside, Glycereth-26, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Panthenol, Ascorbic Acid, Erythrulose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is the active ingredient in self-tanners.
It's a simply sugar that reacts with the free amino acids in your outermost layer of skin to produce brown-colored compounds called melanoidins.
DHA does not penetrate living skin cells, does not interact with melanocytes, and does not affect actualy melanin production.
There's a "safety controversy" that largely stems from misinterpreted studies:
Once concern is that DHA can generate unstable molecules that can damage cells (free radicals) when exposed to sunlight. This only happens in the outermost layer of dead skin cells and wearing SPF on top takes care of it.
The DNA damage claim comes from lab studies that doused living skin cells in much higher concentrations of DHA than you'd ever find in a self-tanner. That's not really a meaningful comparison to putting self-tanning lotion on your skin.
Regulatory bodies around the world, including the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and the U.S. FDA consider it safe for use in cosmetics when applied topically (maximum 10%, and most self-tanners contain between 3-5%).
Learn more about DihydroxyacetoneEthoxydiglycol is a synthetic solvent.
Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.
Ethoxydiglycol also helps deliver other key ingredients into the skin.
Learn more about EthoxydiglycolGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
