What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingXylitylglucoside
Humectant
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXylitol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Dimethicone
Emollient
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glucose
Humectant
Triethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Water, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Retinol, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glucose, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Triethylhexanoin
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSilica
Abrasive
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
EmollientRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Pei-10
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tromethamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
BHT
Antioxidant
PEG-75 Stearate
Surfactant
Ceteareth-20
CleansingHydrolyzed Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantZea Mays Starch
Absorbent
Lauryl Laurate
Skin Conditioning
BHA
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Silica, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Pei-10, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, PEG-75 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Zea Mays Starch, Lauryl Laurate, BHA
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
