What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Methyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantTrimethylsiloxysilicate
Emollient
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Lauroyl Lysine
Skin Conditioning
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Polyethylene
Abrasive
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingSilica
Abrasive
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Propylene Carbonate
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Tin Oxide
Abrasive
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Calcium Titanium Borosilicate
Abrasive
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate
Aluminum Calcium Sodium Silicate
Alumina
Abrasive
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
CI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantCI 75470
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77400
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77000
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantMethyl Trimethicone, Mica, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Synthetic Wax, Lauroyl Lysine, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Octyldodecanol, Polyethylene, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Silica, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Propylene Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Cera Microcristallina, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Tin Oxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Calcium Titanium Borosilicate, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Aluminum Calcium Sodium Silicate, Alumina, Dicalcium Phosphate, CI 77492, CI 19140, CI 77891, CI 77510, CI 75470, CI 77400, CI 77000, CI 42090
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantTrisiloxane
Skin Conditioning
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientPolyethylene
Abrasive
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientSilica
Abrasive
Lauroyl Lysine
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Propylene Carbonate
SolventLecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantMica, Trisiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyethylene, Dicalcium Phosphate, Synthetic Wax, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, Diisostearyl Malate, Silica, Lauroyl Lysine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Isostearic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 77891, CI 77510
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideThis ingredient is used to impart a blue color. It is not water-soluble.
It goes by two different names:
1. Ferric Ferrocyanide: a synthetic dark blue pigment
2. Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide: a synthetic blue pigment, also called Prussian blue
In the EU, both of these colors must be labeled as 'CI 77510'.
Learn more about CI 77510Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891This ingredient is a mineral salt of calcium and phosphate. It is mainly used as a mild abrasive and sometimes used to add opacity to a formula.
Isostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. This is because the original comedogenic tests (on rabbit ears, which are more sensitive than human skin) tested
The Kligman/Fulton rabbit ear papers actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidThis ingredient comes from a fatty acid (lauric acid) and amino acid (lysine). It is used to add a silky feel to cosmetics.
According to a manufacturer, its fatty acid base leaves a silky feeling on the skin. It also has emollient properties because of this. Emollients help soften skin by preventing water from evaporating.
Lauroyl lysine is barely soluble in water.
Learn more about Lauroyl LysineLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinMica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Learn more about MicaPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePolyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxThis silicone is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
It is not soluble in water and helps increase water-resistance in products.
According to a manufacturer, it can blend seamlessly with silicone oils, such as Cyclopentasiloxane.
Learn more about Trimethylsiloxysilicate
