What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasivePEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlucomannan
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Octyldodecanol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Trihydroxystearin, CI 42090, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, CI 19140, Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Citric Acid
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasivePEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Parfum, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Ceramide NP, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Water, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is a fatty acid ester.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePeg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate comes from Isostearic Acid and glycerin.
It is an emollient, emulsifier, and gentle cleanser. As an emollient, it helps trap moisture to keep skin soft and hydrated. Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating.
This ingredient is common in oil-based products. This is because it helps oil-ingredients be easily washed away without leaving a residue.
Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl TriisostearatePEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is an emulsifier and thickening agent.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a long chain fatty-acid ester that Malassezia can use to as a food source, which may trigger or worsen breakouts.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20We don't have a description for PPG-26-Buteth-26 yet.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water