What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycolic Acid 15%
BufferingNiacinamide 5%
SmoothingPropylene Glycol
HumectantSalicylic Acid 2%
MaskingAmmonium Hydroxide
BufferingPolyquaternium-10
Retinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-10
AntimicrobialOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningBoswellia Serrata Extract
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Isosorbide
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid 15%, Niacinamide 5%, Propylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid 2%, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polyquaternium-10, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Oligopeptide-10, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, BHT, BHA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinThis ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water