Bioderma Sensibio AR Anti-Redness Care Versus Ducray Kelual DS Soothing Cream Squamo-Reducing

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Your skin makes its own natural anti-inflammatory hormone called cortisol and it also has an enzyme that switches cortisol off. Glycyrrhetinic Acid slows down that enzyme so your skin's natural calming power sticks around a little longer.

The research is pretty encouraging, especially for calming redness:

This is a good ingredient to look out for if your skin gets red, itchy, or irritated easily. It's also nice for anyone recovering from a harsh treatment or whose skin barrier is feeling a bit stressed.

It's typically found up to 2% because a little goes a long way.

Safety experts at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review found it safe as used in cosmetics. Even at 6%, three times the typical amount, it didn't cause irritation or allergic reactions in clinical testing.

Allergies to it are very rare with only a handful of reported cases over the years. But as with any new product, it's a good idea to patch test if you have reactive skin.

Fun fact: Glycyrrhetinic Acid is also used as a flavoring agent. Its sweet licorice roots mean it's sometimes used to help mask bitter tastes in medicine.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!