What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Tretinoin 0.1%
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide 4%
Smoothing
BHT
Antioxidant
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Oleic Acid
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Dimethicone
Emollient
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Triethanolamine
BufferingTocopherol
Antioxidant
Tretinoin 0.1%, Niacinamide 4%, BHT, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Oleic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Water, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Triethanolamine, Tocopherol
Tretinoin 0.05%
Skin Conditioning
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Butylparaben
Masking
BHT
Antioxidant
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylparaben
Preservative
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Isobutylparaben
Antimicrobial
Methylparaben
Preservative
Octoxynol-9
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Propylparaben
Preservative
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Triethanolamine
BufferingIngredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterTretinoin (aka retinoic acid) is the gold standard retinoid in dermatology because it's the form of vitamin A that your skin can use right away. It's a prescription drug and regulated as medication in most countries.
Unlike retinol, it skips the conversion steps and goes straight to work.
Inside your skin cells, it binds to receptors called retinoic acid receptors and switches on the genes that control how skin cells behave.
For acne, it helps your skin shed dead cells properly instead of letting them build up and clog your pores (this is what turns into blackheads and pimples). It also calms redness/swelling, which is why it's a FDA-approved acne treatment.
Tretinoin also tells your skin to make more collagen and slows down the stuff that breaks collagen apart too. Over time, your skin looks smoother, softer, and more even, with fewer lines lines and sun spots.
The evidence for this ingredient is strong:
A systematic review of randomized controlled trials found that topical tretinoin consistently improved wrinkles, pigmentation, sallowness, and dark spots. Results typically showed up as early as one month and lasted out to 24 months.
All studies also found this ingredient to be safe and well-tolerated.
Typical concentrations run from about 0.01-0.1%, with 0.025%-0.1% being the usual range studied for photoaging and a 0.05% cream producing measurable wrinkle/roughness improvements in large six-month trials.
The main trade-off is irritation; dryness, peeling, redness, and sun sensitivity are common in the first few weeks so be sure to pair it well with a good moisturizer and daily sunscreen.
Learn about a form of retinoid you can purchase at the store, retinol.
Learn more about Tretinoin
