Overview
What it is
Oil with 16 ingredients that contains retinoid and Vitamin E
Cool Features
It is vegan and reef safe
Suited For
It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture
Free From
It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, fragrances, parabens, silicones or sulfates
Fun facts
Akademikliniken is from Sweden.
We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.
About this product
Ingredients List
Dive into the full list of ingredients.
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialHexylresorcinol
AntimicrobialHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientShea Butter Ethyl Esters, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bakuchiol, Hexylresorcinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters is created from, as you might have guessed, shea butter.
According to the manufacturer, this ingredient is lighter, longer lasting, and combines well with other ingredients.
Due to the shea butter base, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Shea Butter Ethyl EstersThis oil comes from the seeds of the desert shrub called Jojoba. It is more commonly known as jojoba oil, a non-comedogenic oil.
Jojoba oil does not contain fragrance and has many fatty-acids, making it a great soothing ingredient.
It also contains Vitamin E, a great moisturizing ingredient. Vitamin E is also an antioxidant and protects your skin against oxidative damage.
This ingredient humectant properties, meaning it helps draw moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
While jojoba has antibacterial properties, it is only able to kill some strains of bacteria.
Studies also show it helps in wound healing. In fact, Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fun fact: Jojoba oil similar to natural human skin sebum, so it has a great effect on dry skin. It is also promising with helping to regulate sebum production.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSqualane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.
Because squalane boosts hydration in the skin, it also comes with plenty of benefits: it is an antioxidant and can help fight free radicals and skin damage. Squalane is also found to have a detoxifying effect when applied.
Squalane comes from squalene, which occurs naturally within the sebum of our skin. It is one of the oils our skin produces to keep itself hydrated. Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene and has a longer shelf life.
Research shows that squalane is non-irritating (even at 100% concentration).
In general, it's a fantastic ingredient. It does a great job at hydrating the skin, and it's suitable for those with sensitive skin.
The source of squalane may impact malassezia / fungal acne. This is because olive oil derived squalane can contain impurities such as fatty acids and plant waxes. Sugarcane derived squalane is recommended for anyone with malassezia concerns.
Is squalane vegan?
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Learn more about SqualanePrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil comes from the sweet almond, a tree native to Iran. This oil has no fragrance and is non-volatile.
Almonds contain healthy fats, vitamins, and minerals. It is a rich source of Vitamin E, a great antioxidant and skin conditioning ingredient. Sweet almond oil contains fatty acids such as linolenic acid and triglycerides.
The content of sweet almond oil makes it a great emollient; it can help soften and hydrate your skin. Emollients create a barrier over your skin to trap moisture in. Sweet almond oil has antioxidant properties.
Those with an almond allergy should be careful of this ingredient and speak with a professional about using it in your skincare.
This ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis OilPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.
This ingredient has emollient and skin conditioning properties. This is due to its polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. It does this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Oryza Sativa Bran OilDimethyl Isosorbide is a solvent and helps deliver actives into your skin. It is created from sorbitol.
As a solvent, dimethyl isosorbide helps dissolve other ingredients. This helps ensure even distribution of an ingredient. It may also be used to decrease the thickness of a product.
Studies show dimethyl isosorbide is able to penetrate skin to deliver other ingredients into the skin, making them more effective.
Learn more about Dimethyl IsosorbideTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateBakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant (it's vegan!). It is often called the replacement for retinol although it is not part of the same family.
It has similar effects as retinol: skin smoothing, reducing discoloration, and preventing wrinkles. It does not cause as much irritation as traditional retinoids.
Bakuchiol works by breaking down free radicals and stimulating collagen production in skin.
Combining bakuchiol with retinol will not have adverse side effects. Studies show using them will just boost the benefits. Bakuchiol is also found to help stabilize retinol.
While bakuchiol does not make the skin more sun sensitive, we recommend wearing SPF on a daily basis.
Read more about traditional retinol
Learn more about BakuchiolAnother popular name for this ingredient is Synovea HR. This ingredient is a skin lightener and antioxidant.
Like other skin lighteners, it blocks the process of skin darkening. Specifically, this ingredient blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for darkening skin when exposed to UV.
Hexylresorcinol works well with other ingredients. Studies show this ingredient boosts the effect of niacinamide, various forms of vitamin C, and retinoids.
Many consider this to be a safer alternative to hydroquinone. In fact, this ingredient produces the same results as hydroquinone in lower amounts.
Fun fact: This ingredient can also be found food and medicine for treating skin infections.
Gentle reminder from SkinSort: all skin tones are beautiful!
Learn more about HexylresorcinolThis ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids? Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming: The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolGlycine Soja Oil comes from the soybean. Glycine Soja is native to eastern Asia.
Soybean oil is an emollient. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids.
As an emollient, the fatty acids in soybean oil helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. It does so by creating a film on top that traps moisture in.
Soybean oil is also rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. Vitamin E is also anti-inflammatory and provides a soothing effect.
Studies show soy may help fade hyperpigmentation from UVB. It does so by disrupting the melanin process from UVB induced skin inflammation.
This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.
Soybeans are rich in proteins and are part of the legume family. Foods made with soybeans include tofu, soymilk, edamame, miso, and soy sauce.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilBeta-Sitosterol is a plant-derived fatty acid with a structure similar to cholesterol (which naturally occurs in skin). It helps hydrate the skin and stabilize formulations.
This ingredient can be naturally found in fruits, veggies, nuts, and seeds.
Squalene is naturally found in plants and animals, including our skin and sebum. It is a lipid our bodies naturally produce and makes up about 10-12% of the oil on our skin. Our skin produces squalene to keep itself naturally hydrated.
This ingredient is a potent antioxidant and can help fight against skin damage.
Sources of squalene include olives and rice bran. Some sources may be animals such as from shark liver.
Squalane comes from squalene and is created using hydrogenation. Squalane is lighter than squalene.
Hydrogenation is the conversion from unsaturated oil to saturated oil. This makes squalane more stable and have a longer shelf life than squalene.
Read more about squalane with an "a".
Learn more about SqualeneReviews
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Where it's from
Akademikliniken is a Swedish brand
We're dedicated to providing you with the most up-to-date and science-backed ingredient info out there.
The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about us· Updated March 25, 2024 • Added by starstellastar_407