This hydrating oil is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Borago Officinalis Seed Oil to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging oil is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Emollient
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Humectant
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin Conditioning
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil
Masking
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetracocoate
Emollient
CI 61565
Cosmetic ColorantCI 60725
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetracocoate, CI 61565, CI 60725
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is the fixed oil pressed from the seed of borage (or starflower). In cosmetics, it's a skin conditioning agent and emollient that helps soften and hydrate the skin.
Its whole reputation rests on one fatty acid, gamma-linolenic acid, that makes up about 20-26% of the oil. There are also significant levels of linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, erucic, and nervonic acids.
Topical evidence is small but reasonably consistent; most of it is about barrier function rather than curing anything.
In 37 infants with seborrhoeic dermatitis treated daily with topical borage oil containing 24% GLA, all patients were free of skin symptoms within 3-4 weeks.
A double-blind placebo controlled trial in 32 children aged 1-10 used undershirts coated with borage oil for two weeks and found statistically significant improvements in erythema and itch. Transepidermal water loss from the back also decreased.
The CIR reviewed this ingredient and concluded it to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Concentration amounts can be as low as fractions of a percent all the way to 100% in facial oils.
Oxidation matters since it's high in polyunsaturates: pairing it with tocopherol or opaque packaging can make a difference.
Allergy risk is low though anyone with a known Boraginaceae allergy should patch test. Cosmetic-grade refined borage oil is usually free from the proteins that cause allergies, but manufacturing quality can differ around the world.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.
The Malassezia species takes up external fatty acids in the C11-24 range to survive. Since this oil is a triglyceride of exactly the chain lengths it needs, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Borago Officinalis Seed OilEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
