What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSteareth-20
CleansingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Sodium Polymethacrylate
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Jojoba Oil
AbrasiveHydrogenated Palm Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-10
Disodium EDTA
Magnesium Silicate
AbsorbentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTin Oxide
AbrasiveBHT
AntioxidantCastanea Sativa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Paraffin, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Beeswax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, Steareth-20, Phenethyl Alcohol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Parfum, Polyquaternium-10, Disodium EDTA, Magnesium Silicate, Panthenol, Tin Oxide, BHT, Castanea Sativa Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, Mica, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientEthylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingStyrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPolybutene
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientSteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Dibehenate
EmollientSteareth-2
EmulsifyingC12-13 Pareth-23
CleansingC12-13 Pareth-3
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientSodium Laureth Sulfate
CleansingSilica
AbrasiveDivinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Disodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
AbrasiveHydrogenated Palm Oil
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTetrasodium EDTA
Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantBHT
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Paraffin, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Beeswax, Synthetic Beeswax, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polybutene, Cetyl Alcohol, Steareth-20, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Steareth-2, C12-13 Pareth-23, C12-13 Pareth-3, Tribehenin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Glyceryl Behenate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Silica, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees to build their honeycomb.
Because it forms a protective layer on your skin, it can help lock in moisture and reduce water loss. It is also widely used as a thickener and emulsifier in lip balms and lotions. Research suggests beeswax containing moisturizers can support skin barrier integrity.
In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own).
Cera Alba is the white, bleached form of this ingredient.
Just so you know, beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.
People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.
Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.
The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.
Learn more about BeeswaxBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholThis ingredient comes from a palm tree native to Brazil. This ingredient is used to thicken texture and leaves behind a film when applied.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAHydrogenated Jojoba Oil is the "hardened version" of jojoba oil; jojoba oil is technically not an oil at all but a liquid wax that has a structure similar to your skin's own sebum.
Adding hydrogen turns this liquid wax into a colorless, odorless, hard wax with a melting point of around 70°C. This is why you'll see it in "stick formulations" like lipstick, eyeliner, and lip balm.
It also acts as a cushiony emollient and skin conditioning agent that leaves skin soft and smooth.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics and that it isn't am irritant or sensitizer.
Typical use levels range from 1% up to 25-31% in stick products.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Jojoba OilHydrogenated Palm Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseParaffin is a solid wax that pulls its weight as an emollient, occlusive, and consistency-booster.
It softens skin and lays down a protective film to slow water loss and gives products a stable body and structure.
The cosmetic grade stuff is highly refined with a solid safety record. The CIR Expert Panel has repeatedly reaffirmed this ingredient to be safe in current practices of use and concentration.
The worry about carcinogenic compounds only applies to industrial grades, not the purified version used in skincare.
Despite its reputation, the highly reformed form is non-comedogenic and doesn't penetrate deeply into skin.
The good news for fungal-acne prone folks: the Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids and lipids and paraffin doesn't contain any of these (so there's nothing for the yeast to metabolize). This ingredient is considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about ParaffinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPotassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Learn more about Potassium Cetyl PhosphateSteareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Learn more about Steareth-20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water