What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientParfum
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Linalyl Acetate
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingPinene
MaskingTrimethylbenzenepropanol
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingRose Ketones
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingJasmine Oil/Extract
Rose Flower Oil/Extract
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingBeta-Caryophyllene
MaskingGeranyl Acetate
PerfumingTerpinolene
PerfumingTerpineol
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Linalyl Acetate, Linalool, Citronellol, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Pinene, Trimethylbenzenepropanol, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Rose Ketones, Citral, Jasmine Oil/Extract, Rose Flower Oil/Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Beta-Caryophyllene, Geranyl Acetate, Terpinolene, Terpineol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCorylus Avellana Seed Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientC15-19 Alkane
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningTriolein
Skin ConditioningHelichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Pinene
MaskingBeta-Caryophyllene
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingCarvone
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C15-19 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Triolein, Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Parfum, Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Pinene, Beta-Caryophyllene, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Carvone
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Beta-Caryophyllene is a fragrance. It can cause irritation.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolLinalyl Acetate is the acetate ester of linalool and can be naturally found in many flowers and spice plants.
This ingredient is often used to add a scent or mask an unpleasant one in products.
Linalyl acetate is mildly toxic to humans and toxic to fish.
Learn more about Linalyl AcetateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPinene is created by distilling the resin of Pinus trees.
It is a known EU allergen. Long term contact with this ingredient can cause dermatitis.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil is an oil.