What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientEthylhexyl Olivate
Skin Conditioning
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Oryza Sativa Bran Wax
Skin Conditioning
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Silica
Abrasive
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Aroma
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Emollient
Punica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Polyester-1
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSqualane
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Linalool
Perfuming
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Diisostearyl Malate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Octyldodecanol, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Silica, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Aroma, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Glyceryl Behenate, Polyester-1, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Squalane, Tocopherol, Linalool
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPhenyl Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Triisostearyl Citrate
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Punica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin Conditioning
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Emollient
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientCalcium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Aroma
Linalool
Perfuming
Diisostearyl Malate, Phenyl Dimethicone, Triisostearyl Citrate, Glyceryl Behenate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Calcium Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Aroma, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.
The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.
Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:
“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”
INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".
However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.
In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.
Learn more about AromaDiisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Glyceryl Behenate is an emollient and emulsifier.
It has a lipophilic-hydrophilic structure that lets it sit at the oil-water interface to keep emulsions stable while leaving skin feeling soft and smooth.
In pressed powder cosmetics, it double as a compacting agent.
This ingredient can be synthetically created or plant-derived. Safety-wise, it has a solid track record.
One thing to flag for fungal acne: since this ingredient is the monoester of behenic acid (C22), it falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Glyceryl BehenateHippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.
Seabuckthorn is rich in phytosterols, carotenoids, Vitamins A, C, and E. This gives it strong antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect your skin from oxidative damage.
This oil is rich in fatty acids, including: two types of linoleic acid (~30-34%), oleic acid (17%), and palmiteic acid (35%). Note these numbers are averages, and different parts of the plant will vary.
Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.
Overall, seabuckthorn oil is great for nourishing, hydrating, and soothing skin. While it shows UV protecting properties, it should not replace sunscreen.
Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.
Seabuckthorn berries are little orange fruits. This plant is native to Asia.
Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides OilLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearatePomegranate flower extract has skin conditioning properties.
According to analysis of the flower, it is rich in the triterpenes ursolic acid and oleanolic acid.
Triterpenes are chemical compounds found in various plants such as pomegranates, apples, basil, and rosemary. They have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
The flowers also contain gallic acid and ellagic acid, two types of polyphenols. They possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
A study from 2017 found pomegranate flower to help heal scars and wounds in rats. Another study from 2020 found this ingredient to help decrease lip wrinkles and increase lip volume.
This ingredient also showed positive effects on dandruff removal in a study from 2015.
Learn more about Punica Granatum Flower ExtractThis silica is mainly used to thicken oils and suspend particles in oils. It is not water soluble.
According to the manufacturer, it:
The manufacturer also claims this ingredient to be useful in makeup.
In lipstick formulations, this ingredient improves color payoff, reduces pigment settling, and reduces oil bleeding. This ingredient also improves the grip of powder products such as dry shampoos.
Learn more about Silica Dimethyl SilylateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
