What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Starch
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantVp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Palmitic Acid
EmollientRhus Verniciflua Peel Cera
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOryza Sativa Bran Wax
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Pistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Glyceryl Stearate, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Glycerin, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Palmitic Acid, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera, Stearic Acid, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Octyldodecanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, CI 77499
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCera Alba
EmollientC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters
Emulsion StabilisingSteareth-21
CleansingGlyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Acacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCentaurea Cyanus Flower Water
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientBetula Alba Juice
AstringentPalmitic Acid
EmollientSteareth-2
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAminomethyl Propanediol
BufferingSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCellulose
AbsorbentTin Oxide
AbrasivePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glyceryl Stearate, Cera Alba, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Steareth-21, Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Lecithin, Betula Alba Juice, Palmitic Acid, Steareth-2, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Xanthan Gum, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydroxyacetophenone, Chlorphenesin, Propanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cellulose, Tin Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, CI 77499, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
We don't have a description for C18-36 Acid Triglyceride yet.
Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneWe don't have a description for Hydroxypropyl Starch yet.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum