KIKO Milano Sun Protection Lip Balm SPF 50

On top of that - it is highly photostable and helps prevent the photodegration of other sunscreen ingredients such as avobenzone.

Tinosorb S is allowed in the EU, Australia, and Asia. It is close to being approved by the FDA and we'll hopefully get this ingredient in the U.S. by late 2026.

Fun fact: Tinosorb S is the most effective UV absorber at maximum concentration (measured by SPF) permitted in the EU.

This ingredient is oil-soluble, so your oil-cleansers will take this right off at night.

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

It is also pretty water-resistant and is highly oil-soluble (so your oil cleanser will get it off right away).

This ingredient is currently available in Europe and Japan, but not in the US.

Ethylhexyl Triazone is oil soluble, oderless and colorless, which mean it is able to be incorporated into a variety of different formulations.

It is not currently available within the United States due to slow changing FDA regulations. Outside of the US, it is used in formulations at concentrations up to 5%.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Besides enhancing UVA protection, DESM can boost the SPF of high-SPF formulations by up to 5 units.

DESM also preserves the color integrity of cosmetic products and helps reduce the chance of yellowing of fading due to light exposure.

This ingredient is typically found in concentrations between 0.3% - 0.5%. There are currently no maximum usage limits by regulatory bodies.

Though this ingredient is a chemical UV filter, it can often be found in "100% mineral" sunscreens. This is due to regulatory loopholes.

Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.

Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

This extract comes as a red-tinted, oily liquid and is packed with carotenoids, proteins, lipids, and minerals.

Astaxanthin is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause oxidative damage to your skin. It is also lipophilic, meaning it loves fats. This lets it concentrate in the outer layers of your skin where UV damage tends to hit first.

Research suggests it outperforms other well-known antioxidants like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Beta-Carotene in terms of scavenging ability. It can also help inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (the enzymes that break down collagen) and can stimulate growth factor secretion to support collagen production in dermal fibroblasts.

Clinical studies have shown that combining oral supplementation (6 mg/day) with topical application of astaxanthin from H. pluvialis led to improvements in wrinkles, age spots, elasticity, skin texture, and moisture content.

This ingredient is generally considered safe and well-tolerated in both topical and oral applications. In cosmetics, you'll see typical concentrations range from 0.1-2%. Allergic reactions are rare and be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

It's worth noting that about 95% of Astaxanthin on the market is made synthetically from petrochemicals.

As a wax-like substance, Hydrogenated Castor Oil acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin stay soft and smooth by creating a barrier. This barrier helps trap moisture.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil may not be fungal-acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.

Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited. Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:

Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.

It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.