Epicuren Discovery Enzyme Concentrate Vitamin Protein Complex
A serum with 21 ingredients.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Panthenol to hydrate skin.
We independently verify ingredients, backed by peer-reviewed research. Suggest an update.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Water
Skin ConditioningCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicNiacin
SmoothingRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCrocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCitrus Grandis Seed Extract
AstringentCinnamomum Cassia Bark
Skin ConditioningArctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Collagen Amino Acids, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Polysorbate 20, Biotin, Niacin, Riboflavin, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Panthenol, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Parfum, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Zea Mays Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterCollagen amino acids are naturally found in the outermost layer of your skin.Your body uses amino acids to build collagen and elastin.
Due to their tiny size, amino acids are able to be absorbed into the skin. They mostly play a role in keeping your skin hydrated and reinforcing your NMF (natural moisturizing factors).
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is a botanical extract pulled from the leaves of aloe vera and one of the most studied plant ingredients in cosmetics.
The inner leaf gel it comes from is mostly water (~99-99.5%) and the remaining fraction is made up of pretty good stuff: polysaccharides, vitamins, phenolics, and enzymes.
Its headline job is hydration.
The star polysaccharide in aloe, acemannan, is a humectant that retains moisture and helps reduce trans-epidermal water loss.
Aloe also has real soothing credentials; it contains anti-inflammatory compounds like bradykinase and C-glucosyl chromone that help calm irritation and redness.
On the repair side, lab work shows that acemannan wakes up your skin's repair cells (fibroblasts), prompting them to multiply and speed up healing.
There's some human data for cosmetic benefit too: a cream containing 10% Aloe Barbadensis leaf extract improved skin hydration and elasticity in a real-use study.
Safety-wise, this ingredient is well-regarded with just one rare downside; there have been some case reports of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis in people who applied aloe-derived ingredients topically. Those with a known aloe or Liliaceae sensitivity should patch test.
Typical use levels range widely, from under 1% up to 90%+ depending on the format and the effect you are after.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Biotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.
Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.
More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.
Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.
Learn more about BiotinNiacin is the other form of B3, with the other being niacinamide. The two have similar skin benefits: reducing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and fading dark spots.
Riboflavin is Vitamin B2. Our bodies use riboflavin in the creation of skin, digestive tract lining, and blood cells.
Riboflavin is naturally found in Royal Jelly.
Foods rich in riboflavin include eggs, milk, organ meat, cheese, and yogurt.
Learn more about other types of Vitamin B:
Learn more about RiboflavinWe don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWe don't have a description for Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract yet.
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
Citrus Grandis Seed Extract is a fragrance.
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark is also known as cinnamon. It contains a bit of iron, calcium, and magnesium.
No studies support the use of cinnamon in skincare. In fact, it is considered a skin irritant and allergen.
Cinnamon bark contains Cinnamal, a known allergen and skin irritant.
Studies do show using cinnamon can induce:
The bottom line: Avoid topical cinnamon (but eating it can provide health benefits!)
Learn more about Cinnamomum Cassia BarkArctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract is from the bearberry plant. Bearberry contains arbutin, a famous skin brightening ingredient.
The bearberry plant is an evergreen shrub. The berries have been used as medicine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis ingredient is the oil from the apricot.
Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient and helps soften skin. This is due to its fatty acid components. Some of these fatty acids include linoleic and oleic acid.
This ingredient also has antioxidant properties from Vitamins A, C, and E. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Besides being antioxidants, these vitamins provide plenty of skin benefits as well.
Learn more about Prunus Armeniaca Kernel OilZea Mays Oil is refined oil. It is created from the process of wet milling corn, or zea mays. Zea Mays Oil is fragrance ingredient, hair conditioning agent, occlusive skin conditioning agent, surfactant, and emulsifying agent.
It is composed of several fatty acids, including myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic.
This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinReviews
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Epicuren Discovery is a American brand
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Read more about us· Updated August 15, 2024 • Added by Erica3687