What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
Humectant
Polyester-5
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Dimethicone
Emollient
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Tuber Melanosporum Extract
HumectantZinc PCA
Humectant
Cordyceps Sinensis Extract
Antioxidant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientLespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Astringent
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Collybia Mushroom Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Polyester-5, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Hydroxyacetophenone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Zinc PCA, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract, Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Collybia Mushroom Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Water
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Propanediol
Solvent
Vp/Va Copolymer
Glycereth-26
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Methylpropanediol
SolventPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Succinic Acid
BufferingNiacinamide
Smoothing
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Masking
Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Zinc PCA
Humectant
Resveratrol
Antioxidant
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Malachite Extract
Antioxidant
Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Alcohol, Propanediol, Vp/Va Copolymer, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Succinic Acid, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Zinc PCA, Resveratrol, Bisabolol, Malachite Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA
