Creamy Vitamina C Versus La Saponaria Vitamina C
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantEthoxydiglycol
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePullulan
Silica
AbrasiveEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Undecylenate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientSodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Glycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.
The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Ascorbyl GlucosideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum