What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSalvia Sclarea Oil
MaskingCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
AntimicrobialBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is the fixed oil pressed from the seed of borage (or starflower). In cosmetics, it's a skin conditioning agent and emollient that helps soften and hydrate the skin.
Its whole reputation rests on one fatty acid, gamma-linolenic acid, that makes up about 20-26% of the oil. There are also significant levels of linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, erucic, and nervonic acids.
Topical evidence is small but reasonably consistent; most of it is about barrier function rather than curing anything.
In 37 infants with seborrhoeic dermatitis treated daily with topical borage oil containing 24% GLA, all patients were free of skin symptoms within 3-4 weeks.
A double-blind placebo controlled trial in 32 children aged 1-10 used undershirts coated with borage oil for two weeks and found statistically significant improvements in erythema and itch. Transepidermal water loss from the back also decreased.
The CIR reviewed this ingredient and concluded it to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Concentration amounts can be as low as fractions of a percent all the way to 100% in facial oils.
Oxidation matters since it's high in polyunsaturates: pairing it with tocopherol or opaque packaging can make a difference.
Allergy risk is low though anyone with a known Boraginaceae allergy should patch test. Cosmetic-grade refined borage oil is usually free from the proteins that cause allergies, but manufacturing quality can differ around the world.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.
The Malassezia species takes up external fatty acids in the C11-24 range to survive. Since this oil is a triglyceride of exactly the chain lengths it needs, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Borago Officinalis Seed OilLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolOenothera Biennis Oil (aka Evening Primrose Oil) is a non-fragrant oil from the evening primrose. Like other botanical oils, it is an emollient that helps hydrate and nourish skin.
It has an interesting fatty acid profile: linoleic (70-74%) and γ-linolenic (8-10%), with some amounts ofoleic palmitic, and stearic acids.
The gamma-linoleic acid (GLA) is the headliner here; it's relatively rare in plant oils and acts as a precursor for anti-inflammatory signaling molecules in the skin.
There's a mixed body of clinical research with this ingredient as well, mostly on eczema/atopic dermatitis skin.
Some controlled trials showed improvement in inflammation, dryness, scaling, and overall severity. Other studies and large meta-analysis failed to show a significant effect; the honest takeaway here is "promising but inconsistent" rather than "miracle oil".
On the safety front, this ingredient is found to be safe as used in cosmetics and even has a history of safe food use.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores. Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Since this oil is contains oleic acid and palmitic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid sits at C18 and Palmitic acid sits at C16.
In vitro studies have shown that oleic acid and palmitic acid are some of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Oenothera Biennis OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil