Alaffia Everyday Shea Body Wash

Rinse-off concentrations typically range from 2-25%.

The finished product sits at a fairly high pH (~9-11) because it's a true soap. This just means it can feel drying or slightly stripping if a formula isn't balance with emollients.

Allergy and irritation risk is low as this ingredient was found to be an irritant in less than 1% of subjects (2 of these subjects had active psoriasis and 3 had active eczema).

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids in the ~C12-24 range, and Potassium Cocoate is made of exactly those (Lauric C12, Myristic C14, Palmitic C16, Oleic C18:1). Lab studies have shown the yeast can take up Lauric Acid and grows readily on Palmitic Acid. Therefore, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

This ingredient can also help mask unpleasant scents from other ingredients.

It can also be mildly exfoliating due to the citric acid, an AHA.

Citrus fruits are rich in flavonoids, alkaloids, and vitamin C.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

In phytochemical analysis, this extract has also demonstrated anti-tyrosinase activity which further supports its brightening properties.

Just so you know, individuals with birch pollen allergy should be careful and patch test this ingredient as pears belong to the same family. But topical use of this ingredient is generally well-tolerated.

This ingredient is not known to sensitize or irritate skin (unlike Vanilla Tahitensis). Vanilla tahitensis has shown to irritate skin in low amounts.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Learn more about the benefits of coffee beans here.

Beyond exfoliation, this extract also contains natural sugars with humectant properties and some vitamin C.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated and low-risk ingredient unless you have a pineapple allergy.

Direct research on this extract is limited and mostly comes from supplier safety dossiers:

Human testing found it to be non-irritating or sensitizing in a 50-subject occlusive patch test.

Real-world concentrations are very low: industry survey data puts it at 0.0007% to 0.02% in face and neck products, 0.0005% in moisturizers and cleansers, and up to 0.04% in hair conditioners.

Most human clinical skin research on coconut is on virgin coconut oil and not this extract. For example, a randomized double-blind trial found virgin coconut oil as effective and safe as mineral oil for mild to moderate xerosis with significant improvement in hydration and skin surface lipids. However, you can't transfer that to a water-based fruit extract at 0.01%.

There's no comedogenicity data for this specific ingredient; the "coconut clogs pores" reputation comes from coconut oil which scored high on the old rabbit ear assay.

That method tested pure ingredients on rabbit ears and later work showed the results translate inconsistently to human skin.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Those metals speed up oxidation so binding them keeps oils, fragrance, and actives from going off, stops color changes, and helps the preservative system work harder.

Survey data shows usage levels range from 0.0099%-0.5% in leave-on products, 0.025%-0.3% in rinse-off, and up to 0.05% in eye-area products. Suppliers typically recommend a range between 0.05-0.5%.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.

As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.

Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.