r.e.m. beauty At The Borderline Kohl Eyeliner Pencil Versus Makeup by Mario Master Pigment Pro Pencil
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Emollient
Trisiloxane
Skin Conditioning
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Dimethicone
Emollient
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantPolyethylene
Abrasive
Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientC20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventLecithin
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
CI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantTrimethylsiloxysilicate, Trisiloxane, Synthetic Wax, Dimethicone, Mica, Polyethylene, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylyl Methicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Dicalcium Phosphate, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 42090
Isododecane
EmollientTrimethylsiloxysilicate
Emollient
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Polyethylene
Abrasive
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Emollient
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Emollient
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
Emollient
Propylene Carbonate
SolventIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Silica
Abrasive
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantIsododecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Synthetic Wax, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyethylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Diisostearyl Malate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Microcrystalline Wax, Lecithin, Propylene Carbonate, Isostearic Acid, Silica, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77510, CI 77742
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateCaprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Learn more about Caprylyl MethiconeCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPolyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolThis silicone is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
It is not soluble in water and helps increase water-resistance in products.
According to a manufacturer, it can blend seamlessly with silicone oils, such as Cyclopentasiloxane.
Learn more about Trimethylsiloxysilicate
