What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Emollient
Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/Ipdi Copolymer
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
PEG-2 Soyamine
EmulsifyingCI 77510
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Glyceryl Caprylate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/Ipdi Copolymer, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, PEG-2 Soyamine, CI 77510, CI 77499
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
Abrasive
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil
Emollient
Mangifera Indica Seed Oil
Emollient
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.
Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).
This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.
Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.
It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.
This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.
Learn more about Limnanthes Alba Seed OilEuphorbia Cerifera Wax (aka candelilla wax) is a vegan stand-in for beeswax. It is a plant-derived wax that functions as an astringent, emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and skin conditioner.
On skin, it forms a protective barrier that helps lock in moisture while it enhances product stability, prevents separation, and helps color last longer in makeup.
This ingredient is generally safe for use in cosmetics with one nuance: some grades of candelilla wax can naturally contain benzyl alcohol at concentrations high enough to require declaration under EU labeling rules. This isn't a concern for most people but relevant for those with fragrance sensitivities.
Candelilla wax contains fatty acids (mainly C31) and wax esters that can be used by the Malassezia yeast, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might see Euphorbia Cerifera "Cera" instead of "wax". This is because some brands, databases, or labels use it interchangeably; they're the same ingredient.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
