Overview
What it is
Oil with 14 ingredients that contains Vitamin C
Cool Features
It is reef safe
Suited For
It has ingredients that are good for anti aging, dry skin, sensitive skin, scar healing and dark spots
Free From
It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, parabens, silicones or sulfates
Fun facts
Dermarium is from Vietnam. This product is used in 1 routines created by our community.
We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Squalane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantCamellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientOpuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Japonica Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSqualane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Ubiquinone, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Explained
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itās technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term āoil-freeā isnāt regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil comes from the Tamanu tree. This tree grows in tropical regions of Asia and Polynesian countries such as Fiji.
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil contains many fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic, and palmitic acid. These properties help your skin stay hydrated.
As an antioxidant, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil may also slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight unstable free-radical molecules.
These molecules may damage your skin cells and speed up aging. By helping to stabilize these molecules, antioxidants may help slow the signs of aging.
A study from 2015 found Tamanu oil to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Another study from 2009 found Tamanu Oil to help absorb UV rays. However, this should not replace your sunscreen.
Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed OilAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a version of ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
This ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
It helps with dark spot fading by interfering with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Like other forms of vitamin C, this ingredient encourages the skin to create more collagen.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
One study found Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to degrade in sunlight, but is stabilized when combined with acetyl zingerone.
Learn more about Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil is created from the seeds of the North American cranberry plant. This plant is native to eastern Canada.
Cranberry seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.
Due to its high linolenic acid, linoleic acid, and oleic acid content, cranberry seed oil is an effective emollient. Emollients help hydrate the skin by creating a film on the skin. This barrier prevents moisture from escaping. Linolenic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Cranberry seeds also contain Vitamin E and Vitamin C, both potent antioxidants.
Learn more about Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed OilHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil comes from the seabuckthorn berry. The seabuckthorn fruit contains carotenoids, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid and vitamin E.
The nutritious content of seabuckthorn fruit oil helps hydrate and nourish the skin. A study from 2018 found seabuckthorn may help with alleviating UV damage due to its anti-inflammatory property.
Carotenoids and Vitamin E help nourish your skin's natural barrier. This barrier protects your skin and is responsible for firm skin.
Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilRosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds from the tea plant. This is the same plant we get green, black, and oolong tea from.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By drawing moisture to the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil helps keep your skin hydrated.
Other components of Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil includes Vitamin E and polyphenols. These are antioxidants that may help slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or unstable molecules that can damage our skin cells.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil also has anti-inflammatory properties.
The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Seed OilUbiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.
Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.
The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:
Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.
When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.
Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.
Learn more about UbiquinoneCamellia Japonica Flower Extract comes from the Japanese Camellia plant. This plant is native to East Asia and known as "Tsubaki" in Japanese.
Tsubaki flowers possess antioxidant and soothing properties. This flower has shown to be effective at fighting pollution damage by protecting your skin's fibroblasts. Your skin's fibroblasts help create collagen and collagen is responsible for youthful, plump skin.
This flower also contains many antioxidant enzymes. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. They may originate from sunlight, air pollution, or cigarette smoke. These free-radical molecules are unstable and are often looking for missing electrons. This instability causes free-radicals to damage our cells. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons.
Thus, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
Learn more about Camellia Japonica Flower ExtractThis ingredient is also known as prickly pear seed oil (PPSO); it's one of the more nutritionally dense plant oils you can find in cosmetics.
Its fatty acid profile is dominated by linoleic acid (57-65%), followed by oleic (16-22%), and palmitic (12-16%).
That high linoleic acid content is a big deal for skin. Linoleic acid is a key component of the skin's own lipid barrier and this combination is associated with improved skin hydration + barrier repair.
PPSO also contains some phytosterols and is exceptionally rich in tocopherols (vitamin E). The phytosterols contribute to anti-inflammatory activity and the tocopherols provide meaningful antioxidant protection.
Animal studies have shown that topical application of PPSO reduced edema formation and inflammatory cell infiltration; this supports its traditional use for wound healing and skin inflammation.
In vitro studies, preclinical, and clinical evidence all point to a very low toxicity profile for this ingredient.
Typical use levels range from 1-100% :
Fungal acne: The Malassezia species can metabolize fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-24. Linoleic, oleic, and palmitic acid fall into this range, making PPSO not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed OilWe don't have a description for Camellia Japonica Seed Extract yet.
This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
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Where it's from
Dermarium is a Vietnamese brand
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The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about usĀ· Updated July 24, 2024 • Added by hanimonkey