Morphe X Jaclyn Hill Palette Volume I Versus NARS Cosmetics Afterglow Eyeshadow Palette

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

You'll see this one rated 4 comedogenic all over the internet. That number isn't from a single study, and the actual research is more interesting.

The original rating comes from 1980s rabbit ear tests (which are a shaky basis for anything). But Ethylhexyl Palmitate is one of the few ingredients with real human data behind it. A 2021 controlled trial found this ingredient increased microcomedones by an average of 365% over four weeks.

Just know that test used the pure ingredient under an occlusive pad on back skin; most products use it at much lower levels alongside other ingredients and plenty of people use those with no issue.

There's no published concentration use from surveys so the best available numbers are supplier guidance: 5-10% for loose powders and 2-5% for creamy cosmetics + pressed powder binding.

The CIR Expert Panel reviewed Magnesium Myristate as part of its assessment of myristic acid and its salts and esters, and concluded the whole group is safe as used in cosmetics.

In human studies, Myristic Acid was non-irritating up to 50% and 100% Magnesium Stearate was non-irritating and non-corrosive on skin and non-irritating to the eye.

There are no published contact allergy case reports for this ingredient so allergy risk is low, but not zero for any ingredient.

There is no comedogenic data for Magnesum Myristate. The comedogenic ratings that circulate for "myristates" come from Isopropyl Myristate which is a structurally different ester.

The rabbit-ear models those comedogenic ratings come from have been shown to be unreliable for predicting whether a finished product will clog pores.

Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.