Shankara Microcrystal Exfoliation Treatment

Shankara Microcrystal Exfoliation Treatment

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This oil-control exfoliator is formulated around Diatomaceous Earth to balance excess oil.

Worth noting

Contains EU-listed fragrance allergens, including Santalum Album Oil and Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract.

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What's inside

Ingredients List

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes from a brown kelp called Macrocystis pyrifera. It is rich in antioxidants and can help hydrate skin.

Brown kelp are rich in unsaturated fatty acids and phlorotannins. Phlorotannins have been found to help with inhibiting melanin production and helping reduce the signs of aging due to their high antioxidant activity.

One study suggests phlorotannins may even have some sun protection factor due to their antioxidant activity. However, this ingredient should not replace your sunscreen.

Macrocystis pyrifera is made up of about: 60% carbohydrates, 10% protein, and 1.50% lipid content. The last 30% is kelp ash.

This kelp can be found in the southern hemisphere and north Pacific.

Learn more about Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin Protecting

Laminaria Digitata Extract comes from the big brown seaweed (or kelp) that grows in the North Atlantic. In skincare, it's mostly used as a skin protectant and conditioning agent.

The most interesting stuff inside is mostly just sugars and minerals: fucoidan (a sulfated polysaccharide), laminarin (a beta-glucan), alginates, and phlorotannins (seaweed polyphenols).

Any antioxidant and soothing claims mostly come from those polysaccharides; crude laminarin and fucoidan from Laminaria digitata do show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab assays.

Just know that the lab assays are test-tube work on isolated compounds and not clinical trials on the finished extract.

Realistically, this ingredient is a nice-feeling and hydrating skin conditioner (not really an active).

Safety-wise, it's one of the better documented seaweeds and safe to be used in cosmetics according to the CIR Expert Panel.

Industry surveys find that usage concentrations run can be found up to 5% in bubble baths and leave-on usage is more likely 0.1-3%.

The risk of allergy is also quite low as human repeat insult patch tests (under 5% and blends containing 8-12%) came back non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Rabbit studies came back negative too, though one trade mixture at 1.5-2.5% in water + propylene glycol did cause moderate irritation at 30 minutes.

Reported seaweed allergies in the literature are almost all occupational (people handling wet kelp) or from a totally unrelated blue/green alga.

You'll see seaweed listed as a 5/5 on a lot of pore-clogging charts and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.

The reasoning behind the reputation is that seaweed is high in iodine and iodine can trigger acne-like breakouts when eaten. This traces back to a 1976 letter in Archives of Dermatology describing two women whose breakouts cleared after they stopped taking high-dose kelp supplements orally.

And the reaction of these two women wasn't clogged pores at all: it was an iodine-triggered pustular rash. Later research found normal dietary iodine doesn't meaningfully affect acne either and nobody has shown topical algae delivers enough iodine to matter.

What we do have is dozens of brown and red algae ingredients found to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and a handful of studies that found algae compounds may actually help acne.

However, plenty of people do report breaking out from algae-containing products. Skin is individual and it's worth avoiding if yours has reacted to algae before.

The 0-5 scale comes from applying ingredients to the inside of an albino rabbit's ear. Rabbit follicles are far more reactive than human ones so it over-predicts. Even petrolatum was reassigned as non-comedogenic by the original scientist, Kligman.

Here are three more problems of comedogenic ratings:

Learn more about Laminaria Digitata Extract
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract is derived from a type of brown algae.

Algae is an informal term for a group of aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize. It is estimated there are at least 30,000 types of Algae.

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract is also rich in sodium, potassium, and amino acids.

Many different types of algae have different benefits.

Learn more about Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Emollient, Humectant, Masking

Algae Extract is one of the vaguest names on any label because it just means "extract of some alga" (and there are thousands of species and dozens of ways to extract them). This just means two products listing it can contain completely different things.

This ingredient name was actually officially retired in the INCI dictionary in 2015 and brands were pushed toward species-specific names instead (like Laminaria Digitata Extract or Chondrus Crispus Extract).

Generally, it is used to hold water and soften skin in a formula. Algae are rich in polysaccharides, pigments, and amino-acids that act as humectants, emollients, and skin-conditioning agents.

It isn't on standard cosmetic-patch test panels and "seaweed dermatitis" is actually an acute irritant reaction to algal toxins in seawater and not the cosmetic ingredient.

You'll see algae listed as a 5/5 on a lot of pore-clogging charts and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.

The reasoning behind the reputation is that seaweed is high in iodine and iodine can trigger acne-like breakouts when eaten. This traces back to a 1976 letter in Archives of Dermatology describing two women whose breakouts cleared after they stopped taking high-dose kelp supplements orally.

And the reaction of these two women wasn't clogged pores at all: it was an iodine-triggered pustular rash. Later research found normal dietary iodine doesn't meaningfully affect acne either and nobody has shown topical algae delivers enough iodine to matter.

What we do have is dozens of brown and red algae ingredients found to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and a handful of studies that found algae compounds may actually help acne.

However, plenty of people do report breaking out from algae-containing products. Skin is individual and it's worth avoiding if yours has reacted to algae before.

Learn more about Algae Extract

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.

In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.

The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.

This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.

Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.

Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.

Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).

The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.

Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Diatomaceous Earth is an exfoliant. It can be good for oily skin.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin

Azadirachta Indica is a tree commonly known as neem, nimtree, or Indian Lilac.

The leaves of this tree contain flavonoids and polyphenols. These two compounds are antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

A 2017 study found neem oil was effective at treating wrinkles and dry skin in mice. The study also found higher levels of elastin and procollagen.

Learn more about Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract

We don't have a description for Carica Papaya Leaf Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Fulvic Acid yet.

Santalum Album Oil is created from the Santalum album, or the East Indian sandalwood tree. This oil has fragrance and masking properties due to its unique scent.

Sandalwood may sensitize the skin for those sensitive to fragrances.

It has been used in traditional Indian Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.

Learn more about Santalum Album Oil
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

This ingredient is also known as lemonbalm oil. It is known for its lemon aroma.

Lemonbalm oil contains citral, citronellal, and geraniol. These components are known skin sensitizers and may cause contact dermatitis.

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract comes from the root commonly known as carrot (the orange kind we eat!).

This extract contains beta-carotene, a pigment responsible for giving plants the orange color. Beta-carotene is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants may help reduce the signs of aging.

Beta-carotene is the reason we turn orange if we eat too many carrots.

It should be noted coming into contact with the leaves of wild carrots can cause skin irritation. The sap causes phytophotodermatitis, or sensitivity exposed to sunlight.

This ingredient is created using the edible parts of the carrot.

Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

Oregano leaf is a culinary and medicinal herb with skin conditioning properties.

Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes form the common thyme plant. It has skin conditioning and perfuming ingredients.

In-vitro studies show strong antioxidant activity due to the high phenolic content of thyme.

Studies also demonstrate it has antimicrobial activity against acne-related bacteria. A 2017 study found this extract exhibited anti-inflammatory effects.

However, this ingredient does have sensitization potential due to its terpene content. Terpenes are among the most common causes of contact dermatitis.

This is kind of a double-edged sword situation where the same compounds that give it antimicrobial power can also irritate reactive skin.

Learn more about Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Olive tree leaves contain more antioxidants than olive fruit.

This is due to its rich flavonoid and polyphenol content. However, the antioxidant content varies depending on plant variety, harvesting method, leaf maturity, and extraction method.

This ingredient also has a natural fragrance. Read more about fragrance in cosmetics here.

Learn more about Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial, Masking, Skin Conditioning

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract comes from the lavender plant.

Many components of lavender flowers are antioxidants, such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and several flavonoids.

Traditional Iranian folk medicine uses Lavender extract to help treat inflammation.

Lavender extract may have a scent.

It contains linalool, a known allergen. However, lavender extract contains less linalool than lavender essential oil.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrastis Canadensis Root Extract yet.

Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as Turmeric Oil.

Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil is the oil obtained from the seed of the edible carrot. The oil is created by steaming and distilling the seeds of the plant.

Carrot Seed Oil has hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

As an emollient, carrot seed oil creates a thin film on the skin. This film prevents moisture from escaping, keeping your skin hydrated. Carrot seed oil has a soothing effect and can help alleviate inflammation.

As an antioxidant, carrot seed oil may help reduce the signs of aging. Antioxidants are able to neutralize free-radical molecules, or molecules that can damage our skin's cells and DNA.

Emerging studies show the alpha-pinene and carotol content give carrots antibacterial and antifungal properties. However, this is dependent on the amount of each compound. More studies are needed.

Carrot Seed Oil is not carrot oil. Carrot oil is created by mixing parts of the carrot in a carrier oil, such as coconut oil.

Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

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Where it's from

Shankara is a Indian brand

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· Updated June 10, 2025 Added by sneharamanan