What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientHydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit/Seed Oil
AntimicrobialLinoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientGamma-Decalactone
PerfumingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberGamma-Nonalactone
MaskingDelta-Decalactone
MaskingDelta-Dodecalactone
PerfumingGamma-Dodecalactone
PerfumingGamma-Undecalactone
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit/Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Gamma-Decalactone, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Gamma-Nonalactone, Delta-Decalactone, Delta-Dodecalactone, Gamma-Dodecalactone, Gamma-Undecalactone, Limonene
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil