FaceTheory Glow-C Vitamin C 20% Serum Versus Uriage Dépiderm Anti-Dark Spot Brightening Booster Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Diglycerin
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Sodium Citrate
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sucrose Dilaurate
Emollient
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Cleansing
Pisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Niacinamide, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Pisum Sativum Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about Propanediol
