Name: Reinigungsöl
Brand: Balea
Rating: 3.29 (7 reviews)

What's inside

Ingredients Explained

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

Emollient

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Isopropyl Palmitate

Emollient, Masking

Isopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.

Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.

Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).

The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.

Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Isopropyl Palmitate

Isopropyl Myristate

Emollient, Masking

Isopropyl Myristate is an ester made by combining isopropyl alcohol with myristic acid.

It is primarily an emollient and penetration enhancer that gives products a lightweight, silky feel without the heaviness of oils.

This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.

You might have heard that this ingredient clogs pores. This reputation comes from the older rabbit ear studies which are more sensitive than human skin to clogging.

Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.

A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.

Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Isopropyl Myristate

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

Emollient, Emulsifying

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:

This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.

This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.

Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.

Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Emollient

Ethylhexyl Stearate mainly acts as an emollient that helps hydate skin. It can also be used to reduce the greasiness of oils in a formula.

Because this ingredient contains a C18 fatty acid chain, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and stearic acid.

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Tocopherol

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

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Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.

The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.

Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).

Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

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