Rhonda Allison Pumpkin E Serum

Rhonda Allison Pumpkin E Serum

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This hydrating serum is formulated around Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Tocopherol to hydrate skin and brighten dull-looking skin.

Worth noting

Contains EU-listed fragrance allergens, including Cananga Odorata Flower Oil and Lavandula Angustifolia Oil.

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What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Cucurbita Pepo Seed oil comes from the field pumpkin, including winter squash and the traditional orange pumpkin we see in Autumn.

Pumpkin seed oil is rich in vitamin E and plenty of fatty acids such as linoleic acids. Pumpkin seeds also have zinc and cartenoids.

Linoleic acid helps moisturize your skin as an emollient. Emollients act as a thin film to prevent moisture from escaping.

Cartenoids are an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect your skin against external damage. They also give pumpkins their classic orange color.

Fun fact: Pumpkins were first domesticated in Southern Mexico about 10,000 years ago.

Learn more about Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil is an essential oil that is derived from the peel of a Grapefruit. It is composed largely of limonene, which is a fragrance that can cause irritation for sensitive skin.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.

The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.

Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.

Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.

Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Masking, Perfuming

This ingredient is also known as Ylang Ylang essential oil.

There are several grades of this oil according to when the flowers are obtained so the exact makeup varies by origin, grade, and extraction.

In cosmetics, its job is mostly sensory: it has a sweet, floral scent often used in perfume.

Chemically, it's complex mix of fragrant molecules: geraniol, limonene, linalool and benzyl benzoate.

Several of these components are on the EU's list of recognized fragrance allergens; this means they have to be labeled when present above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

This ingredient is a known contact sensitizer for a small amount of people so it's definitely worth patch-testing if your skin is reactive.

Lab studies have found the oils does have real antioxidant and antibacterial activity, but keep in mind these are in-vitro findings rather than proven skincare benefits.

Learn more about Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

This oil is created by distilling the wood of the Cinnamomum camphora tree. It contains camphor, a known skin irritant when used in high amounts.

Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.

Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.

When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.

A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.

Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.

More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.

Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking, Moisturising, Perfuming

Jasminum Officinale Oil is obtained from the jasmine flower. The flower has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties of Jasmine flower come from flavonoids.

YSK - Jasmine flowers also contain coumarin, a known EU allergen.

Learn more about Jasminum Officinale Oil

Glutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.

Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.

In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.

This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.

A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:

The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.

One thing worth clearing up:

The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.

Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.

There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.

Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.

One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.

Learn more about Glutathione
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract yet.

Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

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Where it's from

Rhonda Allison is a American brand

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· Updated August 23, 2024 Added by agnieszkakrzysztofik