Rainwater Botanicals Woodland Blueberry Antioxidant Skin Serum
A highly rated serum with 12 ingredients.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Squalane to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
Worth noting
Contains Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, an EU-listed fragrance allergen.
We independently verify ingredients, backed by peer-reviewed research. Suggest an update.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingBanksia Serrata Seed Oil
AntioxidantCucurbita Pepo Seed Oil
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Banksia Serrata Seed Oil, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Eremophila Mitchellii Wood Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
This ingredient is also known as Apricot kernel oil, and it comes form the seed kernels of apricot (a member of the Rosaceae family like almond, peach, cherry, and plum).
It's mostly made up of triglycerides: oleic acid (43.9-78.5%), linoleic acid (9.7-37%), and palmitic acid (4.9-7.3%). These numbers vary depending on the variety of Prunus and the ripeness of the fruit; oleic tends to go up at late harvest while linoleic goes down.
Vitamin E is also prevalent in this ingredient and the most dominant form is gamma-tocopherol.
These compounds give the ingredient emollient and skin conditioning properties that keep the skin soft and hydrated.
There's no regulatory maximum cap for this ingredient so you'll see it across a huge concentration range (100% as a single ingredient facial oil).
On allergies: refined cosmetic-grade oils carry almost no protein. The CIR notes that people allergic to a food generally do not react to the refined oil because the allergenic protein does not partition into it (though cold-pressed grades retain more).
However, it's worth patch testing if you have a stone fruit or tree nut allergy because manufacturer processes for removing the protein can vary.
Malassezia lacks the cytosolic fatty acid synthase gene so the yeast cannot make palmitate on its own and instead uses lipases and phospholipases to release fatty acids from host lipids. Since apricot kernel oil is entirely C16-18 (right in the usable range of C11-24), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Old rabbit-ear testing did assign this ingredient a comedogenic rating of 1-2. The original author has stated that testing on rabbit ears is not an ideal model for human comedogenicity.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Just know high-oleic oils tend to feel heavier on oily skin so it's worth patch testing.
Learn more about Prunus Armeniaca Kernel OilBanksia Serrata Seed Oil is an antioxidant and is an oil.
Cucurbita Pepo Seed oil comes from the field pumpkin, including winter squash and the traditional orange pumpkin we see in Autumn.
Pumpkin seed oil is rich in vitamin E and plenty of fatty acids such as linoleic acids. Pumpkin seeds also have zinc and cartenoids.
Linoleic acid helps moisturize your skin as an emollient. Emollients act as a thin film to prevent moisture from escaping.
Cartenoids are an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect your skin against external damage. They also give pumpkins their classic orange color.
Fun fact: Pumpkins were first domesticated in Southern Mexico about 10,000 years ago.
Learn more about Cucurbita Pepo Seed OilDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil is also known as carrot seed oil. In skincare, it behaves as an emollient as a fixed oil and as a fragrance ingredient as an essential oil.
It's a fatty emollient oil whose main fatty acids are petroselinic (about 59%), linoleic (about 12%), palmitic (about 10%) and stearic (about 2%).
All studies done on this ingredient are in vitro or animal; carrot seed essential oil has been shown to speed up wound closure in rats. Cell culture has also shown it to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity against gram-positive bacteria.
There is a myth going around that this ingredient has an SPF of 38-40. It traces back to a 2009 paper that tested multi-ingredient herbal sunscreen and not just this oil. When tested properly, carrot seed oil measured SPF 0.1 in vitro and 2.5 in vivo. Please do not treat this ingredient as sun protection!
Allergies are documented but uncommon and most of the documented cases come from canning factory workers. It's safe to patch test if you have botanical sensitivities or allergies.
The essential oil version of this ingredient is a terpene-rich fragrance material so those with fragrance sensitivities should also patch test.
There is a published case of phytophotodermatitis after use of a carrot extract-containing sunscreen that presented as a hyperpigmented patch. This is because Apiaceae plants can carry furanocoumarins.
Carrot is in the same plant family as celery and parsley, which contain furanocoumarins. These are compounds that can make skin more reactive to sunlight.
Carrots themselves have very little of them (usually only trace amounts) and the steam-distilled version shouldn't carry them at all since they're too heavy to come through distillation.
If you're using a leave-on product with it during the day, wearing sunscreen covers it.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out due to the fatty acid profile. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.
The Malassezia yeast feeds on long-chain fatty acids (C11-24). The fatty acids in this ingredient fall right into that range, making it not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Seed OilRosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilPunica Granatum Seed Oil is created from the seeds of the pomegranate. Pomegranate seed oil helps hydrate the skin, is anti-inflammatory, and contains antioxidants.
Pomegranates are rich in fatty acids, including an unsaturated fatty acid by the name of Punicic acid. Other components of pomegranates include Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and bioactive lipids such as phytosterols, phospholipids, and triterpenes. Punicic acid helps soothe inflammation.
As an emollient, pomegranate oil creates a thin film on the skin. This film helps prevent moisture loss, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Punica Granatum Seed OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneThis is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractEremophila Mitchellii Wood Oil is an oil.
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It has perfuming and masking properties.
This ingredient contains citronellol and geraniol. These compounds may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity.
The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles. you guessed it: roses.
Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens OilThis extract comes from the blueberry native to North America. It has great antioxidant and skin soothing properties.
The antioxidant properties from blueberries come from its polyphenolic and vitamin C content. Polyphenols are a compound famous for their antioxidant properties and are commonly found in fruits.
A 2023 study found blueberries to protect skin from UV-B related inflammation. However, this ingredient should not replace your sunscreen.
Learn more about Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit ExtractReviews
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Where it's from
Rainwater Botanicals is a American brand
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The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about us· Updated August 15, 2024 • Added by isiovien