Earthwise Beauty Ferns and Moss Face Serum

Earthwise Beauty Ferns and Moss Face Serum

This calming serum is formulated around Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil and Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin.

Worth noting

Contains Evernia Prunastri Extract, an EU-listed fragrance allergen.

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What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a lightweight oil from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera tree. In cosmetics, it's an emollient that forms a light film to slow water loss and soften skin.

Its fatty acid composition is dominated by oleic acid (70-78%), with smaller amounts of behenic, palmitic, and stearic acids (this profile is actually pretty similar to olive oil).

Notably, this ingredient is oxidatively stable for an oil and resists going rancid as fast as other oils.

A small, in vivo study on 32 participants found a cream with this ingredient increased skin hydration with no reported skin irritation. It also found the tocopherol content gave it some antioxidant activity as well.

One thing to flag for fungal acne:
Because this oil is so high in oleic acid, Malassezia can use it as a food source and this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

For everyone else, this ingredient is well-tolerated and nourishing with a good safety track record.

Learn more about Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Carapa Guianensis Seed Oil is an oil.

Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil comes from the Tamanu tree. This tree grows in tropical regions of Asia and Polynesian countries such as Fiji.

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil contains many fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic, and palmitic acid. These properties help your skin stay hydrated.

As an antioxidant, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil may also slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight unstable free-radical molecules.

These molecules may damage your skin cells and speed up aging. By helping to stabilize these molecules, antioxidants may help slow the signs of aging.

A study from 2015 found Tamanu oil to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Another study from 2009 found Tamanu Oil to help absorb UV rays. However, this should not replace your sunscreen.

Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Protecting

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil (aka sacha inchi oil) is a plant oil that is 80-90% polyunsaturated fatty acids. These fatty acids are split pretty evenly between alpha-linoleic acid and linoleic acid.

On skin, it is an emollient and barrier helper since linoleic acid feeds into your skin's own lipid barrier.

A 14 day human study found its moisturizing performance matched olive oil and tested as mild/low irritation on skin tissue.

It also showed gentle anti-inflammatory + antioxidant activity, plus the ability to stop Staphylococcus aureus (a bacteria tied to breakouts and eczema flares) from sticking to skin.

The concentration for this oil is flexible and can range from a few percent in serums up to 100% as a facial oil.

Since this ingredient is a triglyceride oil loaded with fatty acids that Malassezia can feed on, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Allergy-wise, the risk is low. Despite having the nicknames "Inca peanut" or "mountain peanut", this ingredient is not actually a peanut or tree nut. However, allergy to the seeds does exist so patch test if your skin is reactive.

Learn more about Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Copaifera Officinalis Resin Oil is an oil.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract comes from the seabuckthorn plant.

The seabuckthorn plant contains carotenoids, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, Vitamin C, linoleic acid, and vitamin E.

The composition (and benefits) of the extract will depend on which part of the plant it comes from.

Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract
Skin Conditioning

Calendula Officinalis Extract comes from the common Marigold plant.

Marigold flowers contain flavonoids. Flavonoids are a group of substances found naturally in plants. They possess antioxidant and inflammation properties.

This ingredient may help soothe your skin by reducing inflammation. Emerging studies show it inhibits nitrous oxide production safely, therefore reducing inflammation.

Marigolds have been used in traditional medicine throughout Asia and Europe.

Learn more about Calendula Officinalis Extract
Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Tonic

Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil is a fragrance and is an oil.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Evernia Prunastri Extract is from the oakmoss. It is mostly found in forests in the northern hemisphere. Although this ingredient has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, it is a known skin sensitizer.

As an EU allergen, it may cause a life-long allergic reaction every time it is exposed to the skin.

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Where it's from

Earthwise Beauty is a American brand

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· Published May 30, 2023