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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateGlyceryl Undecylenate is a gentle ester made by joining glycerin and undecylenic acid (a fatty acid pulled from castor oil).
In formulations, it pulls double duty as a skin-conditioning emollient and mild preservative.
The glycerin side attracts and binds water to support skin hydration and the undeclyenic acid side adds a bit of broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity.
Undecylenic acid inhibits the formation of fungal biofilm and the branching filaments that let fungi spread.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.1-5%, but it is generally used on the lower end and paired with other mild preservative boosters like caprylyl glycol.
On the fungal acne front:
This ingredient is described in the patent literature as a Malassezia-active ingredient used to treat an excess of Malassezia on the skin (Malassezia is actually a yeast and not fungal).
Though it leans anti-fungal, the leftover Malassezia yeast may feed on the Undecylenic Acid portion of this ingredient. Just know this ingredient may not be a trigger for everyone.
Learn more about Glyceryl UndecylenatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
