+ful Salicylic Acid 2% Serum Versus Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Clear Skin+ Clarifying Serum With 10% Azelaic Acid
This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
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Ingredients Side-by-side
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) comes from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine.
This ingredient has similar properties to azelaic acid; it can help reduce sebum production and soothe skin. PAD also inhibits tyrosinase activity to help brighten skin. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production.
A study from 2023 found 5% PAD combined with nicotinamide (a form of niacin) effectively reduced melanin production after 6 weeks.
Several studies from the 2010's also show PAD to be effective in alleviating symptoms of Rosacea.
Though this ingredient is considered a gentle active, higher amounts may result in irritation.
Unlike azelaic acid, this ingredient is water-soluble. This property makes it easier to formulate into skincare products.
Learn more about Potassium Azeloyl DiglycinateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
