Ilapothecary Express Lip Balm
A lip moisturizer with 10 ingredients.
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Honey to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
Worth noting
Contains EU-listed fragrance allergens, including Santalum Album Oil and Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil.
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What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilHoney mostly shows up in skincare as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. This is because its natural sugars (fructose and glucose) help hold onto water so skin feels softer and more hydrated.
Beyond hydration, honey also has antibacterial and wound-supporting properties. Its antibacterial action comes from a mix of things:
Manuka-type honey has an extra bacteria-killing compound called methylglyoxal, while all Honey contains a natural antibacterial protein called bee defensin-1.
Honey also nudges your immune cells to release signals that start the healing process. This is why medical-grade Honey is actually used in real wound dressings.
Just keep in mind that most of the strong clinical evidence is for wound care and not everyday cosmetic claims.
On concentrations and safety:
According to industry data, honey is used up to 22% in paste/mud packs, 7% as a honey extract in body/hand products, and face skincare levels sit well below that.
A human repeat insult patch test of 7% honey extract in 112 subjects showed no sensitization.
Allergy-wise, honey itself is a rare sensitizer. The bigger culprit is usually propolis that sometimes tags along in less-refined honey.
People allergic to propolis, conifer, poplar, salicylates, or Balsam of Peru are advised to avoid this ingredient due to shared allergens.
You might see this ingredient listed as either Honey or Mel (they're the same thing). Mel is simply the Latin word for honey.
A lot of people wonder if Honey is vegan, and technically it isn't.
Honey is made by bees; they gather nectar and their natural enzymes turn it into the Honey we know. So because it comes from an animal, it doesn't fit a vegan lifestyle.
And please remember to be kind to bees :). They're vital to so many ecosystems, and many species are struggling so they're worth protecting.
Learn more about HoneyOrbignya Speciosa Kernel Oil is an oil.
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter isn't fungal acne safe.
Olus Oil is the INCI umbrella name for vegetable oil; this is an oil of plant origin made up mostly of fatty acid triglycerides.
The key thing to know is that it's a generic term rather than one specific oil: it refers to a vegetable oil or a blend of vegetable oils so its effect may vary depending on the sources used.
Functionally, it's an emollient that helps soften skin and works as a hydrator to prevent water loss.
This ingredient works well across a wide pH range and has a long shelf life.
Fungal acne:
Because olus oil is an undefined blend, its fungal acne safety depends entirely which oils are used. A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride-based version would be fungal acne safe while a rapeseed blend will contain longer-chain fatty acids that Malassezia can feed on.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterBoswellia Serrata Extract is the extract of the whole plant, Boswellia serrata, Burseraceae.
AKA Indian Frankincense Extract
Santalum Album Oil is created from the Santalum album, or the East Indian sandalwood tree. This oil has fragrance and masking properties due to its unique scent.
Sandalwood may sensitize the skin for those sensitive to fragrances.
It has been used in traditional Indian Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.
Learn more about Santalum Album OilVanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil is created from vanilla.
This vanilla plant is not known to sensitive skin, unlike Vanilla tahitensis.
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It is volatile, meaning it evaporates off the skin.
Fragrant components of Rose Geranium include citronellol and geraniol. These may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles traditional roses.
Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens Flower OilReviews
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Where it's from
Ilapothecary is a British brand
We're dedicated to providing you with the most up-to-date and science-backed ingredient info out there.
The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about us· Updated December 23, 2025 • Added by Frans
