Zorah Structure Serum

Zorah Structure Serum

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Overview

What it is

Serum with 9 ingredients

Cool Features

It is vegan, cruelty-free, and reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for dry skin, sensitive skin, oily skin and dark spots

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, fragrances, parabens, silicones or sulfates

Fun facts

Zorah is from Canada.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Isostearyl Isostearate is a plant-based and vegan emollient ester made by reacting Isostearyl Alcohol and Isostearic Acid.

It helps improve how the product spreads on skin, acts as a binding agent for makeup powders without modifying pigment color, and softens skin while helping it hold onto water.

This ingredient is very interesting as a hydrator; most moisturizers are either occlusives, humectants, or emollients. Isostearyl isostearate works through another route named "internal occlusion" by the head researcher.

Isostearyl isostearate nudges the skin's own lipids into a denser, more tightly packed arrangement. Packing the deeper layers of the stratum corneum together more efficiently means less water is able to escape.

This is a barrier-improving mechanism that hadn't been described before and plastic occlusion stress tests confirmed it improved the skin's water-permeability barrier function

Just one thing worth noting from the same review: this ingredient increased the penetration rate of a test drug through excised human skin. Though this ingredient is not classified as a penetration enhancer, it does interact with the barrier rather than sitting totally inert on top.

Fungal acne:
The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids and esters in the C11-24 range. Since both halves of this molecules are C18, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Isostearyl Isostearate

We don't have a description for Isostearyl Hydroxystearate yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

We don't have a description for Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.

The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.

Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).

Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Skin Protecting

Alaria Esculenta Extract is derived from a brown seaweed called badderlocks.

Alaria Esculenta Extract has antioxidant and hydrating properties.

Skin Conditioning

Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil is oil from the Kukui nut and native to Hawaii.

Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil helps soften the skin as an emollient. It also provides antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil can also help soothe the skin.

This nut has been used by many cultures for curing illnesses, such as headache and fever.

Learn more about Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning

Camelina Sativa Seed Oil is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

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Where it's from

Zorah is a Canadian brand

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· Updated January 21, 2026 Added by Maelie234